All posts by Cloudine


Because the teeter-totter in agility is a piece of equipment that a dog must ride while it moves out from underneath them, a number of dogs have been surprised and frightened by it. For some teams, the seesaw haunts them, and they dread it every time they see it on a course.

The methods of training the seesaw that I’ve found to work best are not necessarily intuitive. Many people don’t have access to good information, or a good training foundation to build upon, and these dogs never get a chance to develop a good opinion about it.

Even if you were fortunate enough to understand good teeter training methods, it’s to be expected that your dog will at some point be caught off guard and get scared through a clumsy or over-enthusiastic attempt. And, if this mishap happened for the first time while at a trial, then that’s even more unfortunate because the dog can mistakenly believe that the problem wasn’t only the seesaw, and the whole trial environment can become tainted.

But there is hope! I thought it might be helpful to share my dog Irie’s training journey.

Irie is a pretty confident dog. She’s not really concerned about being up on elevated things or when stuff moves underfoot. She is also not noise phobic (well, except for when my husband sneezes). Some dogs do worry a lot about movement and noise (and other things, too). Those dogs are well served by a lot of non-teeter foundation work, like shaping them to knock down noisy piles, slam cabinet doors closed, bang around on wobble boards, skateboards, and whatever other moving surfaces you can come up with.

Regardless of the type of dog you have, the end goal is a dog that races up the teeter and to the end while it’s still descending. Well, unless your dog is more fragile, then your goal may be to proceed out to the end a little more gently, but most importantly, NOT HESITATING FOR THE PIVOT.

Tips for training the teeter:

  • The dog should already know how to learn new tricks through shaping. Learning is a skill in and of itself, and if you’re still teaching your dog the first handful of tricks in life, postpone teeter training!
  • Always reward away from the seesaw (don’t try to bribe or lure your dog over!) If your dog is scared you don’t want to be forcing any sort of action. Let the dog offer what he can (drop the height to where you know the dog can work (completely to the ground with no movement if your dog needs it)).
  • Shape the end behaviors first. Your dog should already be able to pull the teeter down and jump on from the side and ride it to the ground before you think about sending your dog up the ramp.
  • Reward “presentation” can accelerate the learning process. If you can be at the end holding your highest value reward so the dog sees it as he first steps on the ramp, then do that to get his attention on that reward at the end and off of the concerns of the board moving. As he comes up the board, drop the reward on the ground ahead of the exit. The dog sees the board in the air. Let the dog learn that the faster he slams down the board, the sooner he’ll see (and subsequently get) that reward that dropped out of view on his ascent.
  • Get the dog thinking about the reward, not the equipment too much. If your dog is agonizing over the equipment, you better lower your criteria to whatever point you need to to get your dog more consumed with the reward.
  • Be fluid with your criteria…if your dog is showing a little caution, don’t be too picky about your stop! Get that dog to go, go, go with confidence…not guess/wonder/worry.
  • If your dog flies off, JACKPOT!!! There are very few sane dogs that will fly off and not self correct their speed on the next attempt. Most dogs will freak out. So, do everything you can to get their mind off of the seesaw and out of a state of worry. A long, captivating jackpot can do just that!
  • Get setbacks out of the way well in advance of going to a competition. Don’t hold back and try to protect your dog from a fly off. Get your dog into a high state of arousal while training and work out the associated problems early. Don’t limit your dog by only training slow and careful in training. In fact, that’s not something I’d rehearse at all!
  • Train the seesaw like you want the end product to look. I want mine to be independent (knows how to find entries, can get to the end with me behind, my movement doesn’t disturb the dog who only releases on the verbal command) with a quick release.
  • Release quickly. You will vary the time interval before you release just to be certain your dog is releasing on your verbal, rather than on a specific interval of time. But, if you linger to make sure your dog will stay, you are not training the terminal behavior (of race to the end and get to go sooner).
    • One more thing about Stay training; if you see your dog make a decision to stop, release immediately. So, if your dog thinks about moving, flinches but doesn’t leave, release immediately! That’s truly stay training—staying in the excitement of the moment. If you let the energy fizzle down and then release, you are not training the kind of stay you use in agility. You’re just wasting time and annoying your dog.
    • Test your dog from time to time to make sure she’ll stay when you see her start to get sloppy, otherwise keep it super short.
    • Make sure the movement of the reward is not the release cue. Make sure your dog possesses the understanding to wait until the item has stopped moving before blasting off on your verbal release alone, with no motion from you.


The craze of dog fitness is often accompanied by images of tremendous feats of dogs on bizarre workout equipment or working in the living room on Fitpaws equipment. And, while yes, strength training is important (especially so for the aging dog and the performance athletes), you can not meet a dog’s cardio needs inside the house.

Ok, there are the few exceptions, like the people with a dogtread (don’t think you can put a medium (or bigger) sized dog on a human treadmill…it’s too short) or who live in some indoor field. But, for the normal people out there, you are going to have to get your dog out somewhere where they can run AND get yourself a set of wheels.

True cardio involves getting that heart-rate up and keeping it up. What my dogs do on the hike is intense intervals. Run around and play then mellow out with some trotting and sniffing. Sprint then lay down and stare at the toy, sprint then sniff.  Another might track and chase and track and chase…with check ins and engagement time. I had a hiking business and took my dogs (along with client dogs) out religiously so when I was training for my CCAS I was resistant to the idea that this was not cardio. What caused me to appreciate the difference between high intensity intermittent exercise and a cardio workout? Seeing how demanding cardio was for them. Trotting non-stop could workout these dogs that normally ran many miles with high intensity intervals and what seemed to me to be “non-stop running” while hiking. There’s a difference big difference when you eliminate the recovery period (where the dogs sniff and catch their breath). There’s also a notable difference in mechanics when a dog is trotting vs bounding at higher speed gaits. A dog’s pelvis swings in a different way and the whole movement is symmetrical.

I’m not saying that you should cancel your hikes or other interval training…but you most certainly should add regular cardio to your routine. This means you, too, are going to have to get moving (and, for that matter, your conditioning coach should be in reasonable shape, too). For most dogs in their prime (not  the dogs that can’t keep up on a walk and not the dogs that are too young (which for some big breed dogs might mean well over 2 years!)), you’re going to need a set of wheels to keep up with your dog. There are those few athletic humans who like to run (not jog, but RUN) who may provide a smaller dog adequate exercise without wheels. But, for us regular folk, we are going to need wheels. A bike, something electric like a golf cart, whatever you can operate that works.

Aside from starting very slow (like 1mi and increasing only 10% at a time) and making this a consistent thing (which we humans are miserable at) and getting out there rain or shine, you’re going to need an amount of training on your dog to be able to pull this off. I see so many people who struggle trying to get their dogs passed other dogs or to heed a recall or otherwise pay attention to them who would be in trouble if they were no longer standing on the ground and instead were trying to steer a bicycle while handling their dog.

Playing fetch is a sprinting game that is haunted by sudden accelerations, decels, and changes of direction that will damage important parts of your dog’s anatomy (even if you never see signs of an injury…there are dogs competing at the top levels of performance sports and winning that, when examined (usually only brought in because something was “off”), sometimes have unbelievable (and often bilateral) ligament damage). Trust me, it is our responsibility to get out there and get the dogs some cardio. Cardio is low impact (read: good exercise without the risk of the dog pulling something), has most of the great health benefits that come to mind when you think about how good exercise is, and offers BIOLOGICAL FULFILLMENT…a key component to a rich and functional life with and for your dog.

Need help training your dog? Most people do. Let us help you train for the real world using positive strategies.


In my post about my dogs’ mystery injury, I explain that 1 of my dogs had a subtle and hard to diagnose knee ligament injury and that after a lot of hunting around for information, I opted to have surgically “repaired”. At the time, it was presented to me by all authorities that ligaments cannot heal properly. Recently though, I attended a seminar where Canapp presented his successes healing dogs with 50% or less damage of ligament injuries. (You can hunt them down at VOSM). According to Sherman, they arrived at the 50% severity cutoff in order to have enough successful cases in their first studies. However, there is quite possibly hope for even greater damage to be healed.

The regenerative techniques involve a multi-pronged approach. They are able to go in arthroscopically and, if I remember correctly, treat the area with a laser and get the tissue to tighten up. In conjunction, they are using PRP as a scaffold for the BMC (bone marrow stem cells) with the result of successfully activating this area that normally does not have adequate bloodflow and supply of nutrients to repair itself. There’s a lot more to it than I can do justice. My priority with putting this post out is to make sure that anyone looking for this information knows there’s not only hope, but that regenerative medicine has advanced to a degree that it is likely the superior course of action at this time.

I’m really upset that I have a dog with altered angles to her knees. I can see how it has changed her structure. As a rule, I try not to disturb Nature. Nature knows more than we can with our reductionist techniques and it is lamentable how many surgeries are performed in society today which fail to heal the patient’s problematic causes while saddling them with side effects. So often people do not have the best information and the operating doctor/vet is trusted implicitly as an authority, though too many are not practicing functional medicine.

Now I struggle with fallout from that operation in spite of the fact that I had the best surgeon I could find and the surgery went very well. I tried to make the best decision for her and in spite of my reluctance to opt for surgery. There are times when surgery is the best option…I’m afraid this may not have been one of them.


It snows in spring in Western Washington. Not the cold stuff…we hardly see that throughout the year (unless you’re at a higher elevation), but the seeds from the Black Cottonwood that blow around on dry days is remarkably like big fat flakes of snow. We get so much of it that it piles up in drifts. But, it behaves different than snow or fallen flower petals (which also fall so thick that they collect in drifts). The Cottonwood seeds barely rest on the ground so when you pass they swirl up and dance around.

After a spell of dry days, I saw a spectacular wake behind my dog as we biked along. I thought, ‘This is so fantastic, I should take a video”. But, alas, I was too caught up in the present moment to do anything but relish in the wonder.


In the process of getting older I strive to let go of the things that don’t “work” for me. You know, those things that don’t feel good, that you feel like you should do but don’t want to, those things and thoughts that bog down your consciousness and creativity. Ironically, though, I find myself consumed with circles of thoughts spiraling around these undesirable things when I so wish I could let go of them and embrace any of the many things I’m passionate about. Such is life as a human, I guess.

Actually, I love getting older. I learn things that are so helpful. Without boring you with my lessons, let’s instead talk about some things that I’m really passionate about!

I LOVE being present. Being totally and completely there with my dog as she feels the joy of her first time pulling. Or drinking in the energy as I observe my dog basking in the sun as she lies on the grass. And what’s better than watching a dog roll? Raising my child I am so lucky to actually be with him throughout the day. I can watch how he is in all sorts of scenarios and in different phases of growth. Everyone says how kids grow so fast that you miss it. I appreciate the warning and have not missed much! Sure, my business may suffer as I don’t keep a pulse on Facebook. My attention is elsewhere.

I don’t think I could live any other way because I count on being present to inform me about what actions to take. I don’t know how I could be prepared otherwise. My training and teaching takes on an organic development. It’s greater than just what I could plan for. I hope to be able to connect with clients who want a wholistic approach to their life with their dog. I don’t want to help you teach your dog to jump an agility jump or weave, etc, when your dog won’t give you the quality of engagement that tells everyone watching that that dog is “into it”. Sure, you could get a dog around a full agility course, even be competing, but, I still won’t buy into any of the end results until your dog wants to work and values the job (whatever that may be, agility or otherwise). I’m happy to help people fix glaring omissions in training, but it takes a very special person to put this work in. The beauty of it, though, is that this learning will change your life with this and every dog following. I don’t mean to make this sound too inflated, but, this knowledge, along with the skill to apply it, can transform life with your dog (and possibly also with your kids and other relationships, too).

Now, I’m not saying that I’m ultra enlightened or anything so grandiose (or even anywhere close to that). I’ve been (still can be) quick to fly off the handle, burned many bridges with my tactlessness and lack of respect for formalities, and have plenty of communication skills to work on! But, since we have an active role in co-creating our world, I want to add a chapter to this blog where I can share some Zen moments with you. I’d love to hear if something resonates with you!


After about 3 months of slowly bringing my dog into condition with a bike (I call it bikework rather than roadwork, as I prefer not to let my dog run on pavement!), yesterday we had our first successful bout of pulling. Although I’ve attempted to begin having my dog contribute by pulling ever so gently at a slow trot before now, the pulling was incidental rather than intentional (and I built this up over short periods/distances at a SLOW pace in the middle of a workout over many sessions). And, I intend to build up her understanding of pulling on the ground, at a walk, and with weight for a different exercise focusing on strength and walking muscles.

Even though those in the mushing community seek to build and breed “forward focus” (aka the desire to pull and not look back), I still want a dog that, other than when mushing, doesn’t pull. I believe that unwanted pulling is not good for my dogs, me, or our relationship. So, I’m mindful about how I introduce mushing to my dogs in order to preserve our “courteous walking” training and not confuse them at any point. Confusion can insidiously harm even the most well-intentioned and poison your relationship. Plus, there are times when I want to bike with my dog on a leash when I don’t need her pulling. It’s a delicate matter because unwanted pulling on 2 wheels can be dangerous.

My plan is to use a different harness for pulling to help the dogs know when and when not to pull. However, I’m not yet certain what harness I’m going to buy and the harness that my dog walks in is the same design, for the most part, as a short pulling harnesses. So, while experimenting with how to teach a dog to pull using exclusively positive reinforcement training, we’ve been using our walking harness for now. But, we just had our most glorious breakthrough moment where we both got a feel for what mushing is like, so I’ve a renewed determination to figure out which harness to buy.

What happened that was so glorious? After about 3 mi in to our regular run (she’s regularly running 6mi/cardio day (usually off-leash)), I softly encouraged her to lean into the harness and pull. And, for the first time, she got the feel of it. She felt how she could move the bike and had the freedom to carry forward. I should mention that the previous times out doing bikework, she’s been showing me that she’s feeling strong and ready for more. For those that might run out and try to mush, I did assist with a pedal stroke here and there and it was level ground without much rolling resistance…a level of difficulty appropriate to our introductory stage.  

I’ve been studying different resistance training (from weight pull to carting to more typical mushing) and I do see a lot of dogs that are worked for too long, that aren’t in shape, that fall into bad form and improper gaiting. I think it’s really easy to overdo the intensity/distance/duration when working a dog because dogs are such natural athletes that are so keen to run and move. There’s such a difference in the quality of a dog’s movement when she is fit and ready. Did I mention that it was glorious?

It’s easy to go too long/far because it felt so good to her which was so much fun for me to watch. I probably went a bit long, but I think she was good for a small overload. We ran for 1mi at a light gallop. After which, we followed with a big recovery period before continuing with our regular bikework (the toddler in the trailer wanted to get out and interview the puddles;). Even with a dog in “good condition”,  she was really heated from the short, casual (not top speed) run. Being in shape is really relative to the goal exercise. So, one could argue that she isn’t in good condition for this sport. Anyway, recovery periods certainly factor into the amount of difficulty. And, during that recovery I was able to clearly determine how much she had expended herself. A dog’s temperature keeps rising even after stopping exercise, so beware, especially in hot weather (though heat stroke can happen even in cold weather).

If you were to talk to the mushers, they’d probably laugh at how careful I approach this. I’ve been interviewing mushers to find out more, including a couple of the top competitors in the U.S., to learn what the standard procedures are. It’s largely theory backed with anecdotal evidence as there’s not a lot of research about how to build training up for dogs. We have to extrapolate from human studies, and, of course, apply Wisdom. I think that it’s important to be present and aware and take your time building your dog up. As I learn more lessons (i.e. get older;), I can’t be lazy and just let my dog run without thought. I believe that the quality of her movement was so good because she had the proper level of fitness. Her desire to participate was rewarded by how good it felt to move out. These are probably details that nobody but a geek like me could identify and appreciate. But, let me tell you, I think it’s important. Maybe it’s just a Zen thing and the secret to keeping it in joy.


My Border Collie Irie had the most subtle indication of lameness before she even finished growing. She would limp for the blink of an eye and then walk and move perfectly normal. There were times that I wondered if I imagined it.

This was my 2nd dog with a mysterious ailment. Another BC had some sort of shoulder thing that his adrenaline would mask so well that I was convinced he was sound after studying him like a hawk before deciding to let him exercise. Neither dog had been properly diagnosed (not for lack of trying) and I would give up and just try and rest Irie, put her agility training on hold, and whenever she looked sound for a while, I’d try again. This went on for 5 years of her life until she got up with a more pronounced lameness (walking on 3 legs upon waking (which she walked off!)). It was then that I renewed my efforts to figure out what was going on.

In an attempt to locate exactly where she was hurting, I thought, maybe if I practice lots of different conditioning exercises I can pinpoint where the weakness is. I scoured the internet, so hungry for information. I took different courses, including a detailed certification program, and still couldn’t find all the answers I wanted. There isn’t a lot of good research on dogs (with most of it geared towards sleddogs or racing hounds). But, I did learn a lot. While this didn’t solve my dog’s mystery injury, it did giving me a deep comprehension of physical fitness…a real asset to myself and my students!

Meanwhile, thanks to the gifted Dr Patti Schaeffer, I heard of a very experienced vet, who, and it kills me to say this, told me that it was so clearly a CCL insufficiency that even his intern could have diagnosed it. What the hell?! Anyway, without going into why did the other professionals fail to help, I was relieved to finally know what was wrong, though bummed to find out that my best friend needed SERIOUS knee surgery.

For those of you who are in such a position, let me say that I had gone back and forth on getting imaging done (with varying opinions and being discouraged by some) and was about to spend a fortune on the wrong kind of imaging when Scott Gustafson informed me that the most certain way to look at those ligaments is arthroscopically. So, Irie went in to get scoped and, if it proved to be a CCL problem, she’d get the surgery then and there.

I’ve done so much homework on this injury and know that a lot of dogs blow out their other side, and wondered if it made sense to scope the opposite side while she was under…unless it was too invasive. He said he’d only scope it if I would proceed with surgery for that knee, as well. My mind was blown. I stood in the locker room of the community pool with my toddler laying on the changing table, holding the phone and trying to ask all the right questions before deciding to go ahead with TPLO surgery on both knees at the same time!! I had tried to take my kid swimming to take my mind off of my best friend going under the knife. I was such a wreck, forgetting my zip code while trying to fill gas the morning and totally stressed out.

Long story short (I may post some writing about how the the surgery and post-op went down), the vet was very skilled at what he did. Irie has excellent ROM and tucks her rear very neatly under. We also injected PRP to assist with the repair. I think doing both knees at the same time was definitely the way to go for me and this dog. Although, it made me a total mess as I fretted over every little thing because, by gosh, she had her leg bones sawed and bolted back together!!!

I’m normally not a fan of surgery. But, the mechanics of a dog’s knee are such that this surgery makes sense. Also, ligaments cannot heal properly but bone can.

I was totally freaked out about doing this surgery, because it sounds like a cruel and crazy thing to do. But, Irie is definitely better than she was or would have ever been. Part of my resistance to the surgery was due to the fact that if you saw my dog move prior to the surgery, you would NOT be able to tell that she had any problem. She moved better than a lot of dogs do on their best day. But, a few months after the surgery and studying how she moves I can see a difference and going back in time I could have recognized that she wasn’t doing as well as it seemed. Because I have an eye for quadruped movement (over 10,000 hours) and knowing this dog so well, I can see a pronounced difference in how well she moves in her low back now. She’s very lithe and that area has so much more movement while before she held that area tight to compensate for the insufficient support through the knees. Read an update about how you may not need surgery here. 

I have to end with a little public service announcement about NOT letting your dog blow out her knees. No more chuck it! Stop letting your dog slip (on stairs, where you could have runners, etc). You can’t prevent all slips, but you definitely can stop a lot of them). Teach your dog to run around something so you can send your dog to run out and circle back and run TO you to get the reward. Not only can you present the toy at a safe location (up rather than on the ground, etc), you are building value for running back to you. It takes some training but you’ll be able to get your dog excited about running out to go around a tree (or whatever) with a whole cascade of endorphins without risking the crazy pursuit of the ball (which is so tantalizing when it bounces off erratically that it absolutely causes a lot of dogs to strain, tear and/ rupture the fibers of their body). If you have a high energy dog that wants to chase, you are almost guaranteed that dog will injure himself chasing things. Learn how to play smart and take care with your best friend. I used to think, “They’re dogs…they’ll be fine.” But, they are only human (or whatever the dog equivalent to that saying is;). They are not invincible and despite the fact that these athletes rip around like nuts and seem OK, the truth is that dogs have lots of undiagnosed and underdiagnosed injuries. Scar tissue builds up with repeated injuries and the area gets more and more compromised. The more you know, the more you need to make the appropriate adjustments…and get your dog in top condition!


Offering Behavior

Offering is when the dog comes up with options rather than you directing the dog what to do. I use this method for training most things because when the dog comes up with ideas, the dog is more aware of what she’s doing. When a dog follows a treat or a prompt, they are not as focused on the behavior you’re creating, but rather they’re focused on the treat or your gestures. It is helpful to have the dog actively playing a role because then it’s not all up to you, the dog is a participant and, as he learns a behavior, the dog is responsible for his part of the work.


If your dog is demonstrating any concern, the last thing you want to do is try to lure or pressure them into/onto something. We want your dog to trust you and gain confidence. Pressuring your dog to do something can be damaging to your relationship. Instead, be patient and get your dog interested in trying stuff to win the treat from you.


You and your dog will need to practice learning this way. It is a skill in and of itself. It’s such a useful skill, that, I find, once a dog knows how to offer behavior (also called shaping or operant conditioning), it gets easier and easier to teach your dog tricks. It’s almost like your dog gets easier to train with every trick. Once you’re fluent in this skill, you’ll teach your dog something new in unbelievably short amounts of time.


So, please get some experience with this learning/teaching style. Some things to remember when shaping:

  • It’s a set up. You want the dog to figuratively “walk right into it”. So, if you’re trying to train to interact with a box, you’ll get the dog ready for training (grab your treats, alert your dog that the game is on), and then set the box down in the middle of the room. Since the box is novel, you’re guaranteed some interaction as soon as the box hits the floor.
  • Be ready the second the dog jumps in. If you are still messing around with your treat pouch or whatever, dogs often offer behavior as soon as they enter the area (or the item is set down). If you miss that chance because you were looking at, say, your treat bag, your dog will leave the novel item and come look at you and your treat pouch and the training will stall out.
  • Avoid stalling out. If a dog gets stuck in a sit or a down (obviously, when training something other than sit/down), develop a soft dialogue to communicate, “That’s not it…try something else.” The other thing you can do is take a step to your left or right (most green dogs will get up and follow).
  • You don’t want too much time to go by without the dog succeeding. Shaping can be VERY frustrating and you want to make things easier or break off the training.
  • Some thinking (on the dog’s part) is beneficial stress. Too much thinking is usually not productive. Find that point where the dog is making an effort, but stay away from a demotivating level of concentration.
  • Don’t talk too much. Depending on the dog, talking can encourage, but, at the wrong time, can totally distract the dog from the task. For the most part, try to be quiet except for when the dog is getting close to the right answer or has earned a click/mark. It’s like that game “hot/cold” we played as kids. Make it so that when the dog is correct, you come alive, and when the dog is getting “cold/colder”, you are neutral.
  • CONNECTION, connection, connection. If you don’t have “engagement” and your dog isn’t with you, forget about the task at hand and prioritize building up that connection.
  • Keep it short!! I bet everything I own that your training sessions last too long. Especially when dogs are new to this, you should keep it like 2 minutes long (2 minutes flies by, by the way). It’s better to train for a couple minutes, break it off (either with a toy/play reward and enjoying the play for a time or take a break where you dismiss the dog for a couple minutes), and then start back up for another 2 minutes, for 3 reps a session. If you have more than one dog, you can alternate, giving the dogs a break while the other is working. You’ll make more progress in little bite-sized chunks and the dog will have a better attitude.
  • Leftovers in your pocket and a dog that needs to be taken by the collar away from the task is ideal. You want your dog straining to get back to work.
  • “Relief” is a reward in and of itself. If your dog is concentrating hard, ending the task is a reward.
  • You will want to keep going because it’s rewarding to you to see the dog improving. You will be able to extend the session and keep advancing the behavior you’re training. Beware, though, it starts to get sloppy and the dog starts to think too hard. And, in my experience, a dog thinking too hard is not a good thing (for you or the dog).
  • Don’t be greedy (see above).
  • Slice the behavior down finer if the dog isn’t successful (for example, a glance to start rather than actually touching a paw to a prop).
  • Incrementally make it harder when the dog is ready. Don’t stay at a super easy level (like a glance) once the dog clearly knows that the prop is “hot” (that you want the dog to do something with the prop).
  • Consider placement of reward. Can you reward the dog somewhere that will set the dog up for the next attempt? For example, if you are training to hop onto a board, reward the dog away instead of on the board.
  • Don’t be so focused on your goals that you neglect to realize the dog has come up with a better way/idea/trick. Be flexible. That said, stop and consider deviations from your plan. You do have to be consistent or the dog will get confused, stressed, and nobody will be happy.
  • Enjoy your dog’s creativity. Laugh! Have fun with this! The coolest thing about this style of training is it brings out the dog’s personality.